Experiencing a whole new world at the Bharatpur bird sanctuary

I had a tremendous time at the Bharatpur bird sanctuary (Keoladeo National Park) over the weekend – thanks largely to the company and guidance of friends who are experienced birders but also very laidback, not at all pedantic or demanding, and knew the guides and the best spots to visit. Particularly stunning was an expanse of wetlands near the forest lodge, where tourists don’t normally get to go. (The region was populated by hundreds of brilliant painted storks. Some of the photos here and below are from there: you can basically shut your eyes and point a camera nearly anywhere and capture something that looks like a gorgeous painting. And yet, these pics don’t begin to catch the actual experience of being there, soaking in the landscape and the sounds.)

I have been very interested in the “Umwelt” (distinct sensory perceptions/experiences) of other species for a long time now, but this was the first time I got to observe the behaviour patterns of so many of them up close. With binoculars (and on occasion through a telescope, with the guide managing to take a few passable camera-phone photos through the telescope lens). For a first-time birder this has naturally been overwhelming – I’ll take some time to process and think about all of it, and maybe write about it later.

Two quick highlights for now (among countless others): 1) We got lucky enough to see a pair of Sarus cranes even though their numbers have been dwindling rapidly in the park (only four are left apparently). Also the well-camouflaged nightjar, which is very hard to spot.

2) Having never known anything about the Oriental Darter before, this bird – constantly seen perched on a solitary branch with its wings spread out to dry, and distinctive silvery streaks on the back – became one of the most familiar sights for us on the trip. Leading to “ghar ka Darter daal barabar” jokes. But it never stopped being fascinating either, often epitomising the stillness/thehraav we saw in so many of the birds here. (A couple of Darter photos are below.)

More soon. And again, the photos here represent just a fraction of everything one can see, and hear, and feel, in this setting.